Category Archives: Tutorials

Crochet Pebbles in Progress

I’ve been busy re-decorating for a while now and my crochet has been sadly neglected. But, my new project combines both decorating and crochet so I’m a happy hooker again!

Introducing the oh-so-simple Crochet Pebbles Rug.

Here’s my Work In Progress picture so you can get an idea of what I mean :)

Crochet Pebbles

I’m using an an IKEA rug (which costs around £1.20).  The idea being that I won’t have to back the pebbles with a non-slip coating to make it safer to use.

There are 5 different sizes of crochet pebbles (crochet instruction below in UK terms) and I’m using 5 different shades of DROPS Safran Combed Cotton 4 ply yarn.

Pebbles 1 to 5

I’m about half way through making the crochet pebbles so I should be ready to glue them all into place by the weekend (time permitting) :)

If you fancy having a go at this really simple project, download the crochet instructions PDF for each of the pebbles.  It’s in UK terms so bear this in mind when you are working it :)

Pebble Rug

I’d love to hear what you think and, if you give it a go, please do pop over to my Facebook page to share your pictures.

Rick Rack Tutorial

Quick and simple project – great for beginners

Rick Rack (or ric rac depending on where you’re from) is  a flat narrow zig zag braid with a ton of uses.  I personally love it as an edging on clothing and blankets but I’m sure you’ve got a host of other ideas.

The rick rack I’m going to show you today is a crochet version which is super simple and great for using up leftover oddments of yarn in your stash!  You will need about 7 yards/metres of yarn for 12″ of rick rack.

You will also need a crochet hook that works well with whatever yarn you choose.  I like to use a 2.50 mm with fingering/4 play, a 3.50 mm with double knitting and a 4.50 mm with Aran or worsted weight but, depending on how loosely/tightly you crochet, this will differ…feel free to experiment.

Begin with a magic loop.  (If you’re not comfortable with using these, simply make 2 chain and work into the 2nd ch from the hook – this will work equally as well in this case).

So, let’s begin.

Into the magic ring (or second ch from hook) work 3 UK dc (US sc).

3dc into magic ring


Turn so hook is rhs

Work 3 UK dc (US sc) into the first st.

3dc in first stitch

(a) TURN

Turn again

(b) 3 UK dc (US sc) in first st

3dc in first stitch again

Keep repeating the steps labelled (a) and (b) above and, that’s all there is to it!

pink aran rick rack

Try using different colours…


different thicknesses of yarn..


Mix it up and use up all your scraps…


Use them to trim pictures, sunhats, baskets, wrap around presents!

Why not try this thicker curvier variation!

UK) 3htr into the magic ring, *1ch, turn, 3htr in first st, rep from * to desired length.

US) 3hdc in magic ring, * 1ch, turn, 3hdc in first st, rep from * to desired length.


I’d love to see how you get on.  Drop me a line over on my Facebook page with any queries, comments, pictures or suggestions ♥


Romanian Point Lace Cord

When I first heard about Romanian Point Lace, I just assumed it was another lace making technique.  I had no idea that parts of it were actually worked with a crochet hook.  Of course, when I discovered this, I just knew I had to try it out!

I’m currently having fun experimenting with the cords and braids as I think they can be put to great use with conventional crochet to create jewellery or as edgings.

The first, and possibly easiest to demonstrate is the basic cord.  It makes a sturdy flat braid with decorative edges – I’ve used it in this fun kiddies’ bracelet.

Children's crochet Bracelet

To make one like this, YOU WILL NEED some smooth cotton yarn, an appropriate sized hook, a small button and a needle for neatening the ends and stitching the button.

I’m using Cascade Ultra Pima DK weight yarn and a 3.50 mm hook.

Let’s begin by making the cord – leave about 20 cm (8″) of yarn at the start.  You will use this later to attach the button.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Step 11

Step 12

Now you know how to make the cord, keep going until the piece is about 2.5 cm (1″) longer than the wrist circumference.

Once the cord is finished, make 5 chain and join with a slip stitch to the top of the cord to form a loop.

UK terms: Work (1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc) 5 times into the loop.

US terms: Work (1sc, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc) 5 times into the loop.

It’ll be a tight squeeze but the stitches will go!

Keeping the working yarn over the top of the cord, slip stitch to the first st to join the flower petals together.

Select a button that just fits through the opening in the flower.

Weave the 20 cm (8″) initial tail tail through the cord about 2.5 cm (1) from the end, and firmly stitch the button in place.

Neaten any remaining ends.

There you have it – Romanian Point Lace Cord used to make a fun children’s bracelet.  It’s a great way to use up those odd scraps of yarn….give it a go!!!

Children's crochet Bracelet

If you have any questions or comments, why not pop over to my Facebook page for a natter!

What’s with all the different crochet techniques?!?

Do I need to know them all?

Yes and no!  Hehe helpful aren’t I?!?!

But, seriously, in ALL crafts, there are many many techniques to achieve the same thing, and this is most certainly true of crochet.

For example, making a loop of chains, using a magic ring or working into the furthest chain from the hook – each one of these is a great method for starting a circle!  But, each of them also has a certain style or appearance that may make them a more suitable choice.

Another example is foundation stitches versus a traditional row of stitches made into a chain. Neither method is necessarily better than another but, there are times when one method will sometimes be more appropriate.

And, what about turning chains?  Or, more particularly, the stitches and methods we use to represent them?  It seems not a month goes by that I don’t see another method of substituting the initial UK treble/ US double crochet.

The fact that there are so many choices can be confusing for a new crocheter (or, old, for that matter) so how do you decide what crochet technique to learn or use?

Well, if you’ve bought a pattern from a designer, hopefully, he/she has done that experimentation for you and made the best choice for that pattern.   That said, none of us is perfect and I’m pretty sure some of my early patterns used chain loops when a magic ring would have given a superior finish ;)

But, if you’re free-styling a pattern, it’s all got to come from you and you will possibly need to try more than one method to find the best.  Luckily, the key to successful experimentation is having a fully stocked arsenal at your disposal and the Internet is overflowing with some of the best for you to stock up on!!!

For hints, tips and tutorials, you can’t beat YouTube…yup, that link is a shameless plug for my sparse but slowly growing channel :O Here’s a much better link to some awesome video tutorials :)

The other great way to find out about different crochet techniques is by joining groups or forums where you can chat to people who share your enthusiasm for hooks and yarn – while I seem to be plugging my own stuff, there are some crackers on Ravelry and Facebook ;)

So, do you need to know them all?

My answer is still an indecisive yes and no!

But, what I will say is that learning them is never going to hinder you in any way so you may as well try as many as you can, find out what you like, what you don’t like and don’t be frightened to ask questions ♥  You don’t need to know every technique but some of them are sure going to make your life easier so start filling that portfolio with awesome ♥

To start you off, here’s a quick tip from me.  I call this the no-knot start.  It’s great when you need to start any time with chains – pull the tail tightly after you’ve worked your first row of stitches and it’ll lock into place easily – the finish will be as sturdy as a slip knot but without the knotty bump.  Weave the tail in as you normally would ♥

Head on over to my Facebook page if you want to comment or ask anything♥

Crochet Box Cord

This quick and easy technique is great for making cord for braiding, bracelets, ties, headbands and so many other items.  It works in all yarns from fine to chunky and is much quicker to work than the traditional slip stitch (or UK double/US single crochet) into a chain alternative.

UPDATE:  Since posting, I’ve had quite a few people comment on how they thought this was a foundation half treble (US foundation half double crochet).  I can see why they may have thought this but, not this time ;)

The foundation ‘half’ stitches have an intermediate step where you make a chain.  It is this chain that you work the subsequent stitches into.  The crochet box cord does not have this chain and you work your subsequent stitches into the ‘top’ of the previous stitch.  This is the tricky bit I go on to explain next ;)

If I had to say what this was most like, I would say it’s a reverse UK htr/US hdc  or UK htr/US hdc ‘crab’ stitch….give it a go and you’ll see what I mean :)

So, The trickiest bit is definitely the angle you insert the hook to make each stitch.  It feels a little un-natural to insert the hook from back to front towards you.  But, with a little practice this (like most things) becomes easier to do.

Give it a try and pop along to my FB page to comment or ask questions if you have any :)

If you would like to view more of my videos, you can visit my YouTube channel.  There’s not much there (yet) but, if you subscribe now, you’ll be first in line to see new things that are added ♥

Foundation Stitches

UK Foundation Half Treble (foundation htr)
US Foundation Half Double Crochet (foundation hdc)

In preparation for a new pattern I’m releasing soon, I thought I’d do a quick refresher on this foundation chain and stitch combination.

This method is particularly useful for necklines since the edge will be more elastic than if the chain and stitch were worked separately.

That’s all the hints you’re getting, you know ;)  So let’s get on with the tutorial.  You can click the link below to view in US terms if you prefer :)

UK Version (Alternative US Version)

CH – chain
HTR – half treble
YRH – yarn round hook

1.  Using the hook and yarn you’ve chosen for your pattern, make 3CH

2.  YRH and insert the hook into the 3rd ch from the hook (i.e. the first of the 3CH you made)

3.  YRH again and pull a loop through the stitch – you now have 3 loops on your hook:

So far the stitch has been worked in the same way as you would normally make a HTR.  But this is where it changes.

4.  YRH once more and pull the yarn through the first loop on your hook – in effect making a CH next to the hook – you will still have 3 loops on your hook.

5.  Finish the foundation HTR by working a final YRH and pulling the yarn through all three loops.

6.  To work further foundation HTR, we first need to turn the work to look at the side of the stitch just made and locate the CH made in step 4.  We will be working our next foundation HTR into this CH.

Foundation half treble (foundation half double crochet)

7.  YRH and insert the hook under both loops of this chain ((Note:  some people like to work under just the front loop of the CH but I prefer the finish when it is worked through both loops).

8.  YRH and pull yarn through first loop on hook to make the CH for the next stitch.

9.  YRH and pull yarn through 3 loops on hook.

To make further foundation HTR, repeat steps 7, 8 and 9.

US Version (Alternative UK Version)

CH – chain
HDC – half double crochet
YO – yarn over

1.  Using the hook and yarn you’ve chosen for your pattern, make 3CH

2.  YO and insert the hook into the 3rd ch from the hook (i.e. the first of the 3CH you made)

3.  YO again and pull a loop through the stitch – you now have 3 loops on your hook:

So far the stitch has been worked in the same way as you would normally make a HDC.  But this is where it changes.

4.  YO once more and pull the yarn through the first loop on your hook – in effect making a CH next to the hook – you will still have 3 loops on your hook.

5.  Finish the foundation HDC by working a final YO and pulling the yarn through all three loops.

6.  To work further foundation HDC, we first need to turn the work to look at the side of the stitch just made and locate the CH made in step 4.  We will be working our next foundation HDC into this CH.

Foundation half treble (foundation half double crochet)

7.  YO and insert the hook under both loops of this chain ((Note:  some people like to work under just the front loop of the CH but I prefer the finish when it is worked through both loops).

8.  YO and pull yarn through first loop on hook to make the CH for the next stitch.

9.  YO and pull yarn through 3 loops on hook.

To make further foundation HDC, repeat steps 7, 8 and 9.

Texture, Stitches and Next Month’s CAL

One thing I love most about crochet is texture.  Colour is awesome of course but, for someone like me (who never ventures far outside the neutral zone), texture is the perfect  way to add interest to a design.

I love playing around with a hook and yarn, experimenting with different combinations or adding a twist to an existing stitch as you can see!

So, this month I’ve been playing with the humble half treble (US half double crochet).  That’s not a stitch primarily known for it’s texture, you may be thinking ;)  But, that’s another great thing about crochet – you can change the texture as easily as changing the placement.

Most people who learn to crochet soon learn about front loops, back loops, both loops and around the stem for post stitches.

But the super thing about the half treble is the magical lower back loop (or bump).

When working in the round, it’s a neat trick to work into this lower back loop to get a cool, knitted effect.  Well, this month I wanted a similar effect for next months dc2tog CAL.  However, the item in question is worked in rows so I’ve had to experiment a bit (which, of course, I loved) :)

So, in preparation for next month’s CAL, here’s a quick ‘How To’ on what I’m calling the modified half treble (US modified half double crochet).  PS For simplicity, I will be using UK terms from this point forward.  When published, the pattern will have both versions :)

UPDATE – pattern is now published and available here!

Begin with a foundation of regular half trebles (htr).  When a htr is worked, you will notice (from the right side) a loop behind the stitch.  This is usually called the lower back loop.

When the row turns, you are now looking at the wrong side of the htr and this loop is at the front of the stitch (closest to you).  This is the loop you will be using in the modified half treble (mhtr).

Yarn around hook (yrh) and insert hook from back to front under both loops of next st,


Press the hook down to catch the (now) lower front loop of the htr – you can see it in this image just below the hook,


Press it right through to the back of the stitch – there it is near the top of the hook,


Now work remainder of htr as normal. (yrh, pull through a loop, yrh, pull through 3 loops).

IMG_2550      IMG_2549

The texture and overall effect, especially with this mega bulky yarn, is fantastic (and perfect for the pattern I’ve put together for you all)

modified half treble

Give it a try before coming back to grab your free pattern on November the first.

See you all again soon :)

Common Crochet Problems Part 1

Crochet problems…you know the feeling…you’ve bought the crochet pattern, you’ve lovingly stroked, I mean selected, your yarn, and you’ve hooked with dedication for hours – then suddenly it dawns on you, something isn’t quite right!

Is this going to fit?
What’s that gap in the top of my hat?
Worse still, what’s that ruddy great hole doing in the middle of my blanket?

We’ve probably all been there at one time or another, right?

These are just some of the common problems faced by beginners starting out with crochet (and knitting for that matter). Fortunately, there’s a simple solution to each and every one of these problems and I hope to look at these (and others) over the next few posts.  So, pull up a chair, come on in and let’s chat about the first of them :)

Is my crochet going to fit?

Illustration used with kind permission of  Anne Marie Jones.  © Anne-Marie Jones Illustrations, 2014.

Leaving aside the fact that your baby might be bigger (or smaller) than the average, or that Uncle Bob ate all the pies, your recipient will hopefully, at the very least, fit into some size range in the pattern.  Crochet pattern designers spend a lot of time working out the calculations for all these sizes and better still, to make sure you get it right, they provide you with some very important information.  In the UK we call it tension but in the US it’s known as gauge.  Whatever the name, they both mean the same thing.

Contrary to popular belief, isn’t there to make your life difficult, honestly!  It’s there to make sure that the item you end up with is the size the designer intended.

Gauge or tension is generally written in two parts:

  1. a number of crochet stitches over a given measurement
  2. a number of rows over a given measurement

The measurement part is commonly 1, 2 or 4 inches but this can vary.  I’ve even seen some patterns where the designer will tell you what diameter your circle should be at a given stage.  But regardless of how it’s written, it’s pretty vital information.

So, how do you use it?

Depending on what you are making, there are several ways to begin.  Some people like to make a swatch.  This is just a posh way of saying a sample made using the hook, yarn and stitch that will be used for the pattern – it should be a little larger than the measurement the gauge is measured over.  Others like to jump straight in and start the project straight away.  If you’re doing it this way, make sure there are enough stitches and rows to compare on the section you are working.

There are pros and cons to both methods and I’ve been known to do both, depending on the item in question.  But, ultimately, the bigger the project is, the more useful a swatch will be – let’s face it no-one wants to start, re-start and possibly re-start again when they’ve got a foundation chain of 200 for Row 1!

Once you have your swatch, grab a tape measure (or use a pre-cut square like mine) and count your stitches and rows.

Crochet Gauge Swatch

As you can see, in this swatch I have 8 UK trebles (US double crochets) and 5 rows to 2″.

Next you need to compare how many stitches/rows you have, with how many stitches/rows the designer says you need.

If you have too many of either, then your stitches are probably too small.  Make them bigger by trying again with a bigger hook.

If you have too few of either, then your stitches are probably too big.  Make them smaller by trying again with a smaller hook.


Too many = too small = try a bigger hook.

Too few = too big = try a smaller hook.

You might need to do this a few times before it’s right.  But, once you’ve got it, you are good to go, happy in the knowledge that that your item will be a perfect fit, (even on Uncle Bob)!

What problems have you faced?  Why not let me know!  I can’t promise to have all the answers but, with the help of some very good friends over at the Mad Mad Makers, I may know a (wo)man who does ;)




FREE Princess Headband Tutorial


To fit newborn (14-16″) – tie length adjustable if desired.

You will need around 30 m cotton yarn in double knit/light worsted weight thickness, a 3.50 mm hook, 41 mini beads and a needle for neatening ends.


Pattern/tutorial uses UK terms throughout.


ch – chain
dc – double crochet (US single crochet)
htr – half treble (US half double crochet)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
ss – slip stitch
tr – treble (US double crochet)


Threading beads:  Dip the end of the yarn in PVA/white glue, twist in the natural direction as the plies and leave to dry before threading.

Picot:  2ch, ss in 2nd ch from hook – chains for picot will be in addition to any ch already made.


Thread 36 beads onto yarn.


With beads now threaded, commence with a ch approximately 20 cm (8”) in length.


Row 1:         (Starting in 2nd ch from hook) ss in each ch to end – tie made.


Row 2:         3ch, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) all into end of tie,




Row 3:         1ch, (bring up a bead, 1ch) 3 times,


(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) all into ch-1 sp,





Rep Row 3 until 11 groups of 3 beads have been worked.


Final Row:  1ch, (bring up a bead, 1ch) 3 times, 1ch, ss in ch-1 sp,


make a chain approximately 20 cm (8”) in length,


(starting in 2nd ch from hook) ss in each ch to end – second tie made, ss in ch-1 sp.


Fasten off, neaten ends and proceed to FLOWER (optional).


(tutorial to follow next week)

Thread 5 beads onto yarn.

With beads now threaded, commence with 5dc in a magic ring – instructional video can be found here if needed:

Rnd 1:        (RS) *ss to next st, 8ch, (starting in 2nd ch from hook) ss in next ch, 1dc in next ch, 1htr in next ch, 1tr in next ch, 1htr in next ch, 1dc in next ch, ss in final ch, rep from * around – 5 petals.

Rnd 2:        (RS) ss in each st to tip of petal, bring up a bead, 1ch, ss in each st to base of petal, rep from * around, ss to base of first petal to finish.

Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8”) tail.

Weave tail to centre wrong side of the flower.

Carefully bring each petal to the centre, catch the underside of the tip (so that the bead isn’t hidden) and pull tightly into place.

Repeat for all 5 petals and securely stitch in place with remaining tail.

Crochet Headband with Flower

Fasten off and neaten ends.


One Colour Illusion Crochet


Some while back, I released a pattern for this guitar afghan.


Since then, many people have asked me how it’s worked and how the chart was created. Hopefully, this will answer both those questions.

Creating the pattern

Begin by creating a chart for your design – I will use a heart as an example.  You can use graph paper but the process is much quicker using spreadsheet software (MS Excel or Google Spreadsheets are perfect)


When crocheting later, each ‘shadow’ requires two rows.  For that reason, it is best to repeat each row twice when planning your design.  This will ensure a good representation of the designed shape in the final item.

Photo 0

To make it easier to work with the chart, now that we have designed our image, we can remove the duplicate rows and make the picture squishy!

Photo 1

The next step is to work along each row, merging cells of the same colour.

Photo 1a

Working row by row, count each of the white spaces and label them as sc (single crochet).

Photo 2

Still working row by row, count each of the coloured spaces and label them as FLhdc – this is simply a half double crochet worked in the free loop (more about this later).

Photo 3

Do not be alarmed by the distorted shape.  The squares have just been expanded so that you can see the writing clearly.

You now have the odd numbered rows designed.  The next step is to translate this into a written form and add the even numbered rows.  For a small chart (as per this example, this is easy enough to type out manually).  However, there is an automated method which can save hours of time on a large chart. 

Note:  If doing this manually, you need to write each row, from the top to the bottom.

  1. Highlight the chart area and copy
  2. Into a blank document (Word or similar) click Paste Special and keep text only.
  3. Using find and replace, enter ^w in the find box and a comma and a space in the replace box, then click replace all.

Find and Replace

Note:  If using Google Docs, you can leave the find box empty.

The resulting text should now look like this:

6sc, 1FLhdc, 5sc, 1FLhdc, 6sc,
5sc, 3FLhdc, 3sc, 3FLhdc, 5sc,
4sc, 5FLhdc, 1sc, 5FLhdc, 4sc,
3sc, 13FLhdc, 3sc,
4sc, 11FLhdc, 4sc,
5sc, 9FLhdc, 5sc,
6sc, 7FLhdc, 6sc,
7sc, 5FLhdc, 7sc,
8sc, 3FLhdc, 8sc,
9sc, 1Flhdc, 9sc,

Warning!  The next step is the most tedious of the whole process :O

We need to precede each row with the reverse of the next replacing each FLhdc with BLsc.

BLsc is simply a single crochet worked in the back loop of the stitch (as with the FLsc, we will look at this in more detail later).  In the case of a symmetrical pattern such as this, our job is a lot easier.

We now have text that looks like this.

6sc, 1BLsc, 5sc, 1BLsc, 6sc,
6sc, 1FLhdc, 5sc, 1FLhdc, 6sc,
5sc, 3BLsc, 3sc, 3BLsc, 5sc,
5sc, 3FLhdc, 3sc, 3FLhdc, 5sc,
4sc, 5BLsc, 1sc, 5BLsc, 4sc,
4sc, 5FLhdc, 1sc, 5FLhdc, 4sc,
3sc, 13BLsc, 3sc,
3sc, 13FLhdc, 3sc,
4sc, 11BLsc, 4sc,
4sc, 11FLhdc, 4sc,
5sc, 9BLsc, 5sc,
5sc, 9FLhdc, 5sc,
6sc, 7BLsc, 6sc,
6sc, 7FLhdc, 6sc,
7sc, 5BLsc, 7sc,
7sc, 5FLhdc, 7sc,
8sc, 3BLsc, 8sc,
8sc, 3FLhdc, 8sc,
9sc, 1BLsc, 9sc,
9sc, 1Flhdc, 9sc,

Our final task is to add row numbers, a turn at the end of each row and get on with the fun bit of working the pattern.  Oh, and, since our piece is 19sc wide, we need to start with 20 chain and we will begin by working our first sc in the second of these chain.


Commence with 20ch.

Row 1:               (Starting in 2nd ch from hook) 19sc, turn.
Row 2:               19sc, turn.
Row 3:               19sc, turn.
Row 4:               19sc, turn.
Row 5:               19sc, turn.
Row 6:               19sc, turn.
Row 7:               6sc, 1BLsc, 5sc, 1BLsc, 6sc, turn.
Row 8:               6sc, 1FLhdc, 5sc, 1FLhdc, 6sc, turn.
Row 9:               5sc, 3BLsc, 3sc, 3BLsc, 5sc, turn.
Row 10:            5sc, 3FLhdc, 3sc, 3FLhdc, 5sc, turn.
Row 11:            4sc, 5BLsc, 1sc, 5BLsc, 4sc, turn.
Row 12:            4sc, 5FLhdc, 1sc, 5FLhdc, 4sc, turn.
Row 13:            3sc, 13BLsc, 3sc, turn.
Row 14:            3sc, 13FLhdc, 3sc, turn.
Row 15:            4sc, 11BLsc, 4sc, turn.
Row 16:            4sc, 11FLhdc, 4sc, turn.
Row 17:            5sc, 9BLsc, 5sc, turn.
Row 18:            5sc, 9FLhdc, 5sc, turn.
Row 19:            6sc, 7BLsc, 6sc, turn.
Row 20:            6sc, 7FLhdc, 6sc, turn.
Row 21:            7sc, 5BLsc, 7sc, turn.
Row 22:            7sc, 5FLhdc, 7sc, turn.
Row 23:            8sc, 3BLsc, 8sc, turn.
Row 24:            8sc, 3FLhdc, 8sc, turn.
Row 25:            9sc, 1BLsc, 9sc, turn.
Row 26:            9sc, 1Flhdc, 9sc, turn.
Row 27:            19sc, turn.
Row 28:            19sc, turn.
Row 29:            19sc, turn.
Row 30:            19sc, turn.
Row 31:            19sc, turn.
Row 32:            19sc, turn.

Reading the pattern

So, now we come to the practical bit -how to work the stitches.  As you probably know crochet stitches, can be viewed as back loops, front loops and both loops.

back front both

For this pattern to work, the stitches are worked as you would normally work them, other than this placement.

  1. All single crochet (sc) are worked in both loops
  2. All back loop single crochet (BLsc) are worked in the back loop only
  3. All front loop half double crochet (FLhdc) are worked in the free loops only

So, “What are the free loops?” I hear you ask.  This becomes more apparent when you begin working but, it will be the unused loops in the previous row that lay behind the stitches like this:

Free Loops

So there it is.  You can now create a chart for any one coloured shadow crochet piece.  And, the result…..the most amazing textured item that you can use in so many ways.

Heart in Frame

I hope you enjoyed seeing how the guitar afghan was created.  Perhaps after making this, you will be confident enough to experiment with your own designs.

Copyright Thomasina Cummings Designs 2014, All Rights Reserved